Aviation De-Sulfator Instructions And FAQ's
See Our De-Sulfation FAQs For More Information
Read Our White Paper On Field Testing De-sulfation Effectiveness  
Revised/Updated 11:30 CST, 1/18/05

This technology is new and your A&P, FBO, or battery dealer may not be familiar with it.  The research for the November '00 AVIATION CONSUMER Magazine took over 2 years to compile and included research data gleaned from several university studies, large fleet users, the Canadian DOT, NASA, and several branches of the U.S. Military all of whom we found solidly embraces this technology.  However some A&Ps  may feel this technology is still experimental or controversial.  You should know these units are not a "cure-all" but will go a long way to help curtail, if not reverse battery sulfation if you diagnose your battery accurately and use them properly.

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Aviation Related Instructions And Frequently Asked Questions

Q)  How Do I Use Or Install A De-sulfator On My Aircraft?
A)  This is by far THE most common question we receive from aircraft owners!  So pay attention as we try to be clear about this, even if we resort to describing this process here rather repetitively several different ways.  Similar to most other supplemental chargers, both the 12v and 24v electrical de-sulfator/charger units themselves are not designed to be permanently mounted on-board-or used during flight.  However they are shipped complete with two (2) different sets of detachable cable ends.  One set has ring terminals which can be bolted directly to the battery and thus used as a semi-permanently attach point that some users have left inside or just outside the battery box for convenience when hooking the unit up later on. 
The other set is the standard spring loaded clamp ends that are meant to be temporarily clamped to your battery when charging.  The ring terminal ends are about twelve (12) inches long and have a "quick-disconnect" cartridge type in-line automotive fuse built-in.  The other set of terminal ends have the common spring "C" clamps which (like any charger) can be clipped temporarily directly to your ship's battery terminals.  When either cable set is used, the overall length of the battery attachment cables are 8+/- feet long which has proven ample in most all applications.  

Again and to be clear, some users have used the ring terminal ends they have a built-in quick disconnect fitting and in-line fuse as a semi-permanent connection that they keep with the ship's battery, while others use the standard battery clamps.  You can alternate as they come with both and keep the ring eyes in your plane while you use the clamps* to charge other batteries in your boat, motorcycle, or collector car etc. We include the ring terminal ends primarily for semi-permanent use on aircraft**.  However a word of caution:  While of high quality, the wiring used is the typical automotive or lamp cord type material that is generally used with shop battery chargers as apposed to aircraft grade wiring harnesses. 

If you elect to keep the ring terminal ends attached to your ship's battery (through your battery box) in-between de-sulfation treatments (as some users report they have done) in order to help facilitate easy re-attachment of the unit after each flight, please check with your shop first.  We advise you seek A&P supervision and install or splice (via standard crimp connectors or soldering) a common automotive type 5 to 10amp in-line fuse (in its own in-line container; see below) on the non-grounded or red A+ battery terminal lead.  We suggest this fuse be placed close to the battery terminal itself preferably tucked INSIDE your metal battery box so that rest of the lead is protected down-stream from an inadvertent "short".  If you are uncomfortable splicing in an in-line fuse yourself or do not have the necessary tools, contact your favorite shop for help.

Of note is the fact some shops or individual owners report they have fabricated various methods of easy access to the quick disconnect portion of the leads such as run them through the baggage compartment, or leaving the leads wire-tied securely (out of the weather) inside the battery access door/tailcone area for easy occasional access.  You CAN NOT us your APU plug. The APU plugs (see the question further down the page) many GA aircraft have (including M20s) typically uses a relay to engage and make a connection, consequently the pulse de-sulfator DOES NOT have sufficient amperage to allow it to work through your "ground plug" or APU.  In any event, be sure to have your shop route this lead wire from your battery with an in-line fuse and in such a manner so as not to "short-out" or interfere with any other equipment or operation of the aircraft. 
* See photo above and below of Heavy Duty 12 or 24v unit which has similar "C" clamps and ring terminals included as our standard 6 or 12v units.
**As always, check with your mechanic prior to permanently installing any device such as these wire lead ring terminals, as he may determine a FAA 337 form is necessary.      

Q)  What Guarantee Do I Have That Electronic Pulse De-sulfators Will Work With My Battery?
A)  Due to the illusive nature of sulfation and the fact sulfation may have already done irreversible damage to your battery's lead plates, there is no guarantee any electronic pulse de-sulfator will work on any one specific battery other than our "90 day money back" guarantee.  They will go a log way to break-up and reduce excessive sulfation which has occurred in the past due to lack of use and aggravated by excessive battery case temperatures, but they WILL NOT repair shorted cells, vibration damage, or replace/restore lead reactive material that has already "sloughed off" your battery's plates and fallen to the bottom. 
In batteries with translucent cases (such as motorcycle and PWC batteries) you can actually see the treatment working via the plates changing color (from chalky white back to the dark gray) and in all others you can do a simple test as described in our White Paper on "Field Testing The Effectiveness of Pulse De-Sulfation."  Typically and in keeping with BCI findings, if your battery has does not have a bad or "shorted" cell, but has decreased capacity and won't take a charge, it is probably sulfated and these units can restore up to 70-85% of the former capacity and (in some cases) double the useable life of otherwise mis-treated aviation batteries.  If used from the onset, these electronic de-sulfation units can double the useful life of most batteries.

Q)  Do I Need Any Special Tools?
A)  Yes and no. If you hook the unit to your battery via the common spring clips, you need no tools other than to gain access to your battery. It is our understanding the FAA regs. allow for owners to "charge" or service their batteries and this unit comes with a simple hydrometer which should be used to detect shorted or defective cells.  It is best however, to have your battery checked (and load-tested) first, prior to beginning the de-sulfation process) to see if it is suitable.  See basic operations for more details. If you elect to install the semi-permanent more secure ring terminal ends rather then use the spring clamps, we recommend your shop install an (automotive type) in-line 5-10amp fuse holder which would have to be crimped or soldered in-line; your choice.  The fuse holder should be placed as close to the battery terminal as possible and preferably inside the battery box so as to protect the line itself. In-line fuse holders, extra wiring, eyelets, an clamps are also available from auto parts or discount stores.

Q)  Can I Hook Up A De-Sulfator Through My APU Plug?
A)  No, generally speaking these APU plugs are not "hot" all the time as they are activated by the jumper/boost cart or battery. Their integral solenoid needs higher amperage than provided by most chargers (these units included) to be close or "trip" the APU solenoid and thus make them "hot". Like most supplemental chargers, these units need to be hooked to the battery directly via the included cables. Also, it is uncertain whether the current required to keep the APU solenoid active (closed) would disturb the de-sulfation functionality of this unit. The Dec. '03 issue of MOA addresses this issue in more detail.

Q)  My Aircraft Has Two Batteries. Can I Hook It Up To Both At Once?
A)  It is our understanding most aircraft's wiring systems do not have both batteries hooked together, or at least wired together all the time in parallel.  Thus in these instances to charge or de-sulfate both simultaneously you will have to fabricate a temporary jumper line hooking them both together in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative) order to de-sulfate them using only one de-sulfator. While two different de-sulfators are best, it is possible to fabricate a jumper cable out of 16-18 gauge aircraft quality wire to jump your batteries together in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) and thus de-sulfate both at once.  We strongly recommend you consult your shop as is vital you understand this procedure prior to doing any modifications or additions to your ship's wiring as this temporary jumper must be fused with an in-line 5-10amp fuse close to each battery (preferably within each battery box). Also, it MUST be disconnected PRIOR to operation of the aircraft.  Check with your shop prior to fabricating or installing any jumper or "keep-alive" wiring.  

Q) How Often Should I Use A Pulse De-sulfator, And/Or Can I Keep It Connected (plugged in) Most Of The Time I Am Not Flying?
A)  These units are suitable for continuous operation if you so choose. Generally, it takes a few weeks to properly de-sulfate a G35 battery which was in otherwise good condition. We find you can keep these units connected all the time while your aircraft isn't in use as unlike most all other so called "automatic" charger/maintainers", they are computer driven and truly automatic, and should not overcharge or "boil" the acid out of an otherwise good battery.  In fact, it has been our experience they won't harm the battery even if left unattended for months on end. Remember, in GA batteries, excessive sulfation is THE killer and it didn't occur overnight and thus can't be cured overnight initially. No simple formula exists but the larger the battery or the worse the de-sulfation, the longer it generally takes.  The heavy duty units would de-sulfate quicker.

Q)  Is Excessive De-sulfation Especially Rampant In aviation batteries?
A)  Yes, primarily for two main reasons; high battery case temps (both when in use and in long-term on-board storage) AND infrequency of use.  Infrequently used aircraft which mount their batteries inside cowls (near the hot engine), or in un-insulated fuselage tailcone areas (such as Mooneys and most Cessna, Beech, and Piper aircraft) which are then stored in un-insulated hangars or sit outdoors in the hot sun are especially prone to excessive battery plate sulfation. In short, most GA applications are a recipe for excessive sulfation which results in premature battery failure.  Maintaining adequate battery capacity is vital for GA as your battery serves as your only source of reserve power when your charging system fails.  See next question. 

Q)  My Battery Seems To Start My Engine OK, Doesn't That Mean It Is In Good Shape?
A)  You would think so, wouldn't you?  However believe it or not, battery manufactures report that it only takes about 15% of a battery's rated capacity to spin the starter and start the average GA engine.  So, unless you load-test your battery using the proper shop equipment, it is entirely possible your battery could be sulfated to the point of only having far less than 1/2 of its reserve capacity and you not know it!  That means, you may only have a few minutes of reserve when your alternator or regulator quits as even at full rated capacity, our batteries are significantly smaller than in cars.  Most of the time reduction in reserve power capacity is caused by excessive plate sulfation and tests show it can be stopped, pulse-treated, and even reversed by pulse de-sulfation. 

Q) Does the electronic pulse process treatment harm any on-board "keep alive" circuits or aircraft avionics?
A)  We have had no negative reports, but we recommend you disconnect sensitive avionics equipment and/or at least leave off your aircraft's master switch during pulse treatments.  Generally, it is our understanding that the ship's battery acts as a large capacitor and absorbs the pulses and doesn't allow them to pass though to harm avionics.  With that said, we accept absolutely no responsibility for any damage to any on-board electronics should you elect to keep the battery connected to your aircraft systems during treatments.  We have no record of any electronics being harmed, but if you elect to use our product and keep your battery on-board, you are doing so at your own risk! 

Q) What do the aviation battery manufacturers say about this technology?
A) Most of those contacted welcome the technology, if not outright endorse it due to the rampant sulfation problem.  A few major battery manufacturers have even gone on record promoting pulse electronic de-sulfation especially in "problem" installations where their batteries are taxed to capacity and also left un-attended frequently.  For example, Dan Rankin, VP of Teledyne Gill Battery openly recommends pulse de-sulfating/charging for Teledyne Gill GA batteries as a method to promote longer life and increased capacity. 

Q)  How can I tell if your unit is working or going to be successful at treating my aircraft battery? 
A)  The unit has two small LED lights, green and red as well as a small black button.  The red LED is simply a power indication light and should light up once the unit is plugged in to household voltage.  The green light should glow steady once the unit is hooked up properly to the battery (red pos, black neg) AND if the subject battery is showing sufficient voltage to accept a charge.  Once the unit has been hooked-up and has charged the battery sufficiently (typically overnight), it automatically switches to pulse de-sulfation mode and as indicated by a blinking green light.  The better condition the battery is to begin with, the quicker it switches to pulse mode automatically.  As a preliminary evaluation test however, after the unit has been hooked up for a hour or two, you can manually force it to go into the de-sulfation mode by pressing the mini black button and the green light should begin blinking if the unit has determined the battery will accept the pulse charging operation. 

You may be able to return the unit back to its automatic mode by momentarily disconnecting one lead. If the green LED doesn't blink once you press the black button manually, or doesn't automatically go into the blinking/pulse mode after a day or so, chances are the battery has other problems such as a shorted cell and is not a good candidate for de-sulfaton.  You should check for shorted cells prior to hooking this unit up via the hydrometer (enclosed) and/or test the battery with more sophisticated shop evaluation equipment, and make a special effort to do so if the unit fails to begin its pulse mode automatically after a few days.  
Read our White Paper tests for two simple tests you can do to prove pulse de-sulfation is viable. 

Q) Will these aviation units work on any other batteries such as in my R/V, PWC, boat, motorcycle, or golf cart?
A)  Yes, while the Aero Bat Pac units we offer here are specifically "tuned" to GA batteries, they will work on others, just that they take longer to de-sulfate a larger battery having a larger lead acid plate area.  Besides 12 and 24volt aircraft units, we also have 6volt units popular for motorcycles and vintage collector cars. 

Q)  Do you have other model pulse de-sulfation units available?
A)  Yes, in addition to the 1.2amp 12v aviation unit, we have 1.2amp  6volt units and a commercial grade Heavy Duty 2.4 amp 12volt unit for quicker de-sulfation and charging.  This unit is ideally suited for larger automotive batteries and is about twice the size as our standard units.  Our 24 volt units are extremely popular with newer aircraft owners due to the scarcity of 24volt charger/maintainers on the retail market.  In addition we have a 2.4amp 36volt unit for golf cart and industrial batteries such as banks of 6volt batteries typically used to create 36volts for forklifts etc.  Car collectors and pilots who have cars or boats sitting dormant much of the time find these units a godsend. Call for details. 

Q)  How long does it usually take to de-sulfate the average 12v G-35 battery?
A)  Generally the more surface area of lead plates present (such as when doing  more than one battery at a time), the longer it takes to de-sulfate a battery.  Typically it takes at least 2 weeks to de-sulfate a otherwise functional G-35 aviation or lawn tractor size battery, and up to a month or more for larger batteries including 24v batteries. When doing more than one large battery at a time, it can easily take over a month initially, but remember, the de-sulfation process doesn't have to occur all at once.  You can use the battery (or vehicle) in-between periods of electronic de-sulfating treatments.

Q)  Will they work equally well on all kinds of GA lead acid batteries such as sealed or recombinant, as well as gel-cell lead acid batteries?
A) Yes, reports indicate they work equally well on most any type lead/acid battery.  Interestingly, manufacturers clearly indicate that the  new style sealed RGB/recombinant types are also in need of de-sulfation.

Q)  Can they treat more than one battery at a time, if so how many?
A)  Generally unless you are familiar with the condition of each specific battery used and they are a matched set, we don't recommend treating multiple batteries hooked together as electrical circuitry being what it is, if one battery is weaker it tends not to get as much pulse energy as the good or strong one and thus the two won't be treated equally. However, several users report success in using them on multiple identical or matched batteries long-term.  In theory, they are however capable of treating several batteries in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative), or perhaps in series (positive to negative) so as to provide the proper voltage needed for your particular de-sulfation unit.  For example, two 12v batteries hooked in series (pos. to neg.) in essence creates one 24volt battery. Generally, except with our 36volt unit which is designed to treat a bank of golf cart batteries, it isn't best to treat more than 2-3 batteries at once.  Remember, the more combined plate area presented to the unit, the longer it takes to de-sulfate.  If you attempt to treat more than one battery at a time, you will need with light gauge (16-18 gauge) jumper cables such as lamp cord and terminal ends or clips to connect your batteries which you will have to fabricate yourself.  In-line fuse holders, extra wiring, eyelets, an clamps is available from autoparts or discount stores. Only users with a good grasp of how batteries function and how the de-sulfation and charging process works should attempt to treat multiple batteries at once.

Q)  Do you still offer "Sweep Frequency" units which are said to work on both 6, 12v, and 24v batteries?
A)  Not really.  Initially we offered these units primarily because we thought they weren't "voltage sensitive" and worked on various voltage batteries.  However, since many of our users find they end up leaving their batteries un-attended for long periods of time and we have found that if left un-attended for long periods the Sweep Frequency units could "boil" the acid out of smaller batteries same as many other automatic generic charger/maintainers, we don't like to sell them.  We will only sell these units on special order basis to commercial shops with a minimum order of 4 and the firm understanding they aren't best used long-term unattended.  Generally, we feel specific "tuned frequency" units are more effective and safer for private owners.

De-Sulfation Home
Read our White Paper field tests
Read more about sulfation
See Our De-Sulfation FAQs For More Information

Same Day Ship On-Line Orders Or Call:  877-564-6662 OR  941-484-0800 or Email Us With Your Requests